Me and the Gemstones I Design With

Deco Oval Ring by Lili Koós

A special, bespoke piece of jewellery is always more than just a beautiful accessory: it carries personality, value and a story of its own. But what makes a gemstone truly unique, and how can a jewellery designer bring out the very best in it? Today, I would like to introduce some of my favourites from my own personal perspective.

Why is knowledge of gemstones essential?

Jewellery design requires more than creativity and artistic vision – it also demands a high level of specialist knowledge. An experienced jewellery designer understands that every gemstone has its own unique properties: each stone reacts differently to heat, water, light and mechanical impact.

Eclate Necklace by Koós Lili

When designing a ring, necklace or pair of earrings, aesthetics are therefore only part of the equation. It is equally important to consider whether the chosen gemstone is technically suitable for its intended use – particularly if the jewellery is designed for everyday wear.

A bespoke piece of jewellery should not only be beautiful, but ideally should remain durable and retain its beauty for many years. To achieve this, a jewellery designer needs to understand a gemstone’s exact hardness, refractive index and surface sensitivity.

When is practicality more important than appearance?

Many people love wearing their jewellery day and night, but not every gemstone is suitable for constant wear. Pearls, for example, are particularly delicate and can easily be scratched or discoloured when exposed to water, cleaning products or cosmetics.

Pearl Ring by Lili Koós

Other gemstones, such as kunzite and morganite, can become more vulnerable when exposed to heat. If someone cooks regularly or spends a lot of time around hot steam, these stones may be more susceptible to damage or changes in appearance.

As a jewellery designer, I therefore always consider my client's lifestyle and help them choose the gemstone that best suits the way they live.

How are hardness and function connected?

The hardness of a gemstone largely determines what type of jewellery it is suitable for. On the Mohs scale, diamond is the hardest natural gemstone, with a rating of 10. This makes it suitable for virtually any type of jewellery and exceptionally resistant to scratching. It is no surprise that diamonds are such a popular choice for engagement rings.

Personally, I also love working with sapphires. They are among the harder gemstones and are available in far more colours and shades than many people initially realise.

Essential Woman Rose Gold Sapphire Ring

Emerald is another exceptionally beautiful gemstone, but it is more delicate than diamond or sapphire. Because of its inclusions and natural brittleness, it requires greater care and attention. It looks particularly beautiful in a setting that also provides protection for the stone.

As a jewellery designer, my role is to find a solution that is both secure and elegant – for example, an appropriate gold setting can help protect the gemstone and support its longevity.

The world of classic and alternative gemstones

Alongside diamonds, sapphires are also among the harder gemstones, making them an excellent choice for jewellery intended for everyday wear, such as a sapphire engagement ring.

Their extraordinary range of colours gives me endless creative possibilities: deep blue conveys timeless elegance, yellow feels joyful and light, while pink creates a romantic mood.

Among the less familiar gemstones, more and more people are discovering the extraordinary violet-blue shades of tanzanite or the fresh green of prasiolite. These stones offer not only a unique visual experience, but their rarity can also give them significant collector appeal.

Tanzanite Earrings by Lili Koós

Which rare gemstones already have investment value?

The world of gemstones is not only about beauty – it is also about value. Rare stones such as Paraíba tourmaline, orange-pink Padparadscha sapphire or highly sought-after Muzo emeralds are considered true treasures.

When selecting such a gemstone, I therefore consider not only its aesthetic qualities but also its economic potential. Under the right circumstances, certain rare gemstones may appreciate in value over the long term. Their owner can therefore possess not only an exceptional piece of jewellery, but also a potentially valuable long-term asset.

How do you choose the gemstone that is right for you?

Get to know your lifestyle – If you are active, play sports or cook frequently, avoid gemstones that are particularly sensitive to heat or impact.

Consider hardness – Diamond, sapphire and ruby are generally well suited to jewellery intended for regular wear.

Let the symbolism of the gemstone guide you – Sapphire symbolises loyalty, emerald represents hope, and ruby is associated with passion.

Think long term – A rare gemstone can be more than a piece of jewellery; it can become an heirloom and a valuable asset.

Work with a jewellery designer – As an experienced jewellery designer, I help you choose a gemstone together that reflects your personality and suits your individual needs.

Why work with a jewellery designer?

A bespoke piece of jewellery can tell your story in a way that a ready-made piece never could. A jewellery designer brings not only technical expertise, but also the ability to understand what story you want to express through a ring or necklace.

The collaboration is about creating more than an object. It is about creating a personal work of art that reflects who you are.

Organik Bracelet by Lili Koós

Private jewellery design also gives you the opportunity to discover extraordinary gemstones that you might otherwise never have access to. This sense of exclusivity is what makes truly luxurious jewellery so special.

What is the story behind each gemstone?

Every stone has a past, and every piece of jewellery carries a message. An opal can tell the story of the Australian mines, a tanzanite comes from the heart of Africa, while a piece featuring an emerald, sapphire or diamond can become a family heirloom passed down through generations.

As a jewellery designer, I aim to shape that story in a way that gives the chosen gemstone a deeply personal meaning for my client.

Inspired to create a bespoke piece of jewellery?

The world of gemstones is endlessly fascinating. Yet their true value comes to life when an experienced jewellery designer transforms them into a unique creation.

Whether you choose a classic diamond or a rare Paraíba tourmaline, what matters most is that the jewellery tells your story.

And if you are looking for long-term value, think of a gemstone as an asset that can preserve its beauty and significance for generations to come.

Inspired to create your own bespoke piece?

Book a personal consultation at +43 606028842 or hello@lilikoos.com, and let’s design the jewellery of your dreams together!